St. Elizabeth of Cayce: Rome Trip - July 5: St. Peter's Bottom to Top

Up at 7-something. Body in shock, thinking it's 1 AM. Out by 8 - walked to Metro Station (Vittorio Emmanuel.) Bought our week-long passes at the local tobacconist - the ticket dispensing machine in the Metro didn't want to take plastic.

(Or, bip and don't go...)

The Metro was very crowded - rush hour. Izzy almost didn't make it onto the train on our first ride. Eau de subway already pretty strong.

Emerged at Hostia de San Pietro. Walked 4-5 blocks to a side entrance into the Piazza - we're finally here at St. Peter's Basilica!

I like the idea of crossing a national frontier w/o a passport. We picked up new "Pope-eners" (beer bottle openers w/Papal heads - these were of B16) at the tchotchke stand.

We arrived around 9:15 AM. Took pics in the Piazza (St. Peter's Square) and made a brief visit inside of the church before our 10:45 AM Scavi tour reservations.

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(Totus Tuus - another of the ever-present reminders of John Paul 2)
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Also stopped in the Vatican bookshop - lots to drool over in there.

The Catechism - in Latin!

Multi-language sections, not all selections duplicated in all languages. Found a 2006 liturgical pocket calendar for Izzy (which we opted to pick up later in the day when our bag would have more room (i.e., after we'd eaten the lunches.)

(Scavi Office - thence underground to the 1st century level and burial site of St. Peter)

Scavi tour: we had a priest from the Netherlands who was a very good story teller (kept our interest very well) and who actually appeared to believe the history he was relating to us. Very nice for his audience, and it certainly helped maintain the perigrini mood. Good explanations of the history of Roman burial traditions in addition to the history of the site traditionally believed to St. Peter's resting place. It was an emotional moment when we were given a chance to pray in front of Peter's bones.

(Wall painting of sun God as Christ - only shot taken on Scavi tour)

Diabetes content - skip if you'd like. I had a surprise pre-lunch blood sugar of 113. It was 1:30 Rome time, and I'd eaten nothing since 7:30 AM. I'd felt weak and hypo just as the tour was starting - this would have been around 4:45 AM body clock time - likely my normal low followed by glycogen production to elevate my glucose level. (Couldn't eat on the tour.) I'm still planning to follow the Roman clock - it's too hard to eat and do our activities on the US clock. It will just take awhile to adjust. Lunch, which we ate on the steps, was bread and cheese sandwiches that Izzy makes and packs. Bottled H2O.

Trip to the Dome. Now that we've been to the bottom, let's head up to the top. Very long line for the dome/cupola. Very interesting dress on some women/girls - not quite getting the meaning of Vatican attire rules.

(No amputees(?), no leiderhosen)

One girl had a light grey shawl covering spaghetti straps (OK) but enough of a gap between the bottom of her shirt and top of her pants that the "whale tail" and severely sunburned area beneath it (caudal to it) were quite visible. One girl was wearing plastic sleeves under her tank top - it was hot and they were completely stuck to her skin!

(Plastic sleeves!)

We opted to buy lift tickets: it took off 223 of the 553 steps, leaving 330 steps to climb. We made it up with a few brief rest periods (mainly for me - Izzy was very patient!) The view was totally worth it! Lots of pics!

(inside the dome, before the main ascent)
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(Look, Ma - we made it!)
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We headed back down the steps to the Bernini Plaza (rooftop) where we found a souvenir shop, a gelato/coffee shop and a Vatican Post Office.

(Bernini Plaza)
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(Blue Vatican Post Box, souvenir & coffee shops)

I picked up postcards to complete tonight and mail tomorrow when we return for the Via Triumphalis Tour. Izzy got a cappuchino - I've never seen the attraction for hot drinks in hot weather, but he sure was happy. Back down the elevator, which opened directly into the Basilica. Guards made sure everyone was covered before we disembarked (scarves on, hats for men off.) More walking around, oohing and aahing over the decoration, statues, etc.

(Pieta)
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(St. Veronica - go to Flickr for larger shots of "true icon")
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(Rubbing Peter's toes - nearly worn away)
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(Side altar - everything here is beautiful!)
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(Station V)

Sacraments. After checking the schedules, we headed over to the Sacramental area for confessions. It was wonderful to see how many languages were available. Izzy wound up with a priest who wanted to talk, including about the upcoming motu proprio (once he learned Izzy's occupation); my confessional experience was more about guidance and assurance. God doubtless guided us to the right confessors.

After Reconciliation, we headed over to the Adoration Chapel for Benediction. There was a guard stationed there to keep tourists & cameras away. Izzy approached with hands folded and said "Perigrini, non turistas." I pulled the lacy shawl I was carrying over my head - no problems getting in. The service of Benediction was somewhat different from what I am used to -- mainly in the music used. I was able to follow along with the Tantum Ergo. The rest was in Italian.

We next headed up to the very front chapel for 6 PM Mass. Prior to Mass, there was a ceremony of readings about St. Peter, our status as peregrini, etc. They must use this service often - papers were re-collected afterwards before Mass started.

The first reading was about Abraham being asked to sacrifice his son, Isaac. (Yes, my Italian -- I think it was Italian -- is improving a bit.) Gospel was in Latin, along with the rest of the Mass. Izzy was able to follow along with all of the responses. I knew a few of the major "mass part" chants.

There was a choir from the US singing Latin throughout. They closed, however, with the spiritual "Ezekiel Saw the Wheel."

There was a male reader, a primary celebrant and three con-celebrating priests. There was passing of the peace, so I assume it was a V2 Mass; it was my first Latin Mass - in St. Peter's!

(Receiving the Keys - detail of pillar near statue of St. Peter)

As Mass ended and we turned to leave, I noticed that there was quite a crowd behind the partition watching us. Surprisingly, we really couldn't hear them during Mass. Strolling out, we notice that the church is much quieter than before. We headed back out to pick up the Latin prayer book & calendar.

Commuting. It's now early evening. The metro is far less crowded than before. At our station , the escalator is broken. Many, many steep stairs - we were glad for the rest period we'd had after climbing the dome. The repair crew turned it back on just as I stepped off - too late for me, but welcome to the families carrying babies and strollers up the steps.

Dinner. Back to the apartment; we napped until 8:30. Up for showers, then strolled downstairs to the Trattoria Morgana for dinner. Discovered that lots of folks knew about the Thursday night gnocchi, and they'd sold out of it. Nigerian/British couple next to us at dinner asked how we'd found out about the restaurant - apparently it's quite well known. Who knew? We were just lucky to have chanced on it next door.

Izzy had veal; I had the same dinner as Tuesday (bruschetta pomodori and asparagi.) Opted for vino (glucose was 80 before dinner - didn't bother to check afterwards.)

We sat at the table and filled out the many postcards we'd picked up. We had plenty of time - meals are very leisurely here - and we were done at 11:40 PM. We took a post-prandial stroll to the Bancomat (ATM) nearest Sta. Maria Maggiore.

Caught up a bit on journal entries before bed. We'll mail as many cards as we have addresses for tomorrow (now today.)

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Valuable Travel Tip: bring postal addresses with you.
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